LIFOU

Lifou

Lifou is the largest of the three main Loyalty Islands off the east coast of New Caledonia. It is a raised coral atoll made of fossil coral.  It is famous for its clear blue water and white sand beaches. It is very traditional and over 96% of the population is native with a few people of European or Polynesian descent.  LDS missionaries haven't been on the island for around a year and there was a part-member family there who wanted to be baptized.   President Granger asked two elders to go teach and baptize them and asked us to go with them. The island is quite large and the missionaries needed someone to drive them around.

Lots of caves and coral fossils

Jinek Bay

Luengoni Beach

One of many old Catholic and Protestant churches

Coconut crab--huge and delicious

Ihage family and a nephew in front of their traditional case

IHAGES

Brother Ihage, a formerly less active member, had been teaching his family and was anxious for them to be baptized.  He had taught them well.  We went directly from the airport to their home.  The missionaries taught them Wednesday and Thursday, conducted baptismal interviews on Friday, and baptized them on Saturday.  The three older children loved receiving their own copies of the Book of Mormon and faithfully read their assignments. Poapy (center) always had her copy with her.

The Ihages sleep in their case, but have a kitchen, living room, etc. in the main house. 
Most homes in Lifou have a case on the property as well as a modern home. We showed them pictures of our new granddaughter Etta on Elder Glade's laptop shortly after she was born.  

The six year old daughter has tons of personality.  During the baptismal interviews she had the non interviewing elder, two older brothers, an18-year-old cousin, and a friend all entertained as she led them in one activity after another.  Lots of leadership ability in one so young!

The family with Elder Eronico and Elder Conger

Waiting in the chapel for the meeting to begin

The chapel is a small two-room house.  Usually there are about 20 people at meetings.  For the baptism and sacrament meeting the next day there were many more. Sunday there were over 40 and the rooms were bursting at the seams with more people outside.  The family was baptized in a small, portable font behind the missionary house, a small house on the same lot as the chapel.  
  
Brother Ihage was overjoyed to have his family finally baptized.

His family is excited to begin their new lives as members of the church.

                           


         

A missionary baptizing a future missionary

            Elder Eronico and Poapy




The missionaries had an experience every missionary hopes for. 

Elder Glade and I felt blessed to be able to share in this joyful, spiritual experience and to be able to spend time with the wonderful, dedicated members and the amis (friends--investigators) of the church in Lifou.  An amazing and truly unforgettable experience.







 
                                                                                                   

Etta Louise daughter of Daniel and Kelcey Glade

Elder Glade and I were worried about being in Lifou with spotty internet right when our granddaughter was due to be born.  One morning, just as we were leaving our hotel room, we got an email saying Kelcey was in the hospital. We drove a half hour to pick up the missionaries and another half hour to drop them off at their teaching appointment.  Ihages said they could get internet sitting on a stump under a palm tree in their yard.  We couldn't get it to work.  We drove to the Patriarch's house; we connected to their wifi just in time for Daniel's email announcing Etta's birth. So grateful for a beautiful, healthy granddaughter and for the miracle of modern technology!

TONGUE-TIED

TONGUE-TIED

Two weeks ago I gave a talk in church--in French.  Thanks to google translate, Elder Glade, a young missionary, Elder Calveau, and lots of practice, people were able to understand me. Even though I do enjoy the challenge, it is so hard not to have the words easily available to express my thoughts. Some French words are just plain hard for me to get my tongue around unless I say them over and over again.  This has made me think how this mission has left me tongue-tied.  It is so hard to find the words to describe our experiences with the natural beauty, the culture, the people, and the spirit.

Sometimes on p-days we have time to explore more of the natural beauty of this island.

Chutes de la Madeleine

View of Dumbea from Mont Khogi

Grand Kaori--1000 year old tree

Roche Pierce

         But the ride home from the bureau where we work can be equally spectacular.

The mix of island, European (mostly French), and Asian cultures makes life in New Caledonia rich and varied--ukulele music, Chinese shops, and French restaurants. One day while waiting for a car to be fixed we visited some members who are a family of famous sculptors.  We enjoyed learning more about some of the symbols in their work and their significance in Melanesian culture.

I've been a little surprised at how quickly I have come to love the people here so deeply--ward members and investigators, the young adults we work with some and the missionaries, the couple I teach English to who are hoping to pass the Michigan test and go to BYUH.  

A young boy front and center enjoying watching dancing at a ward activity.

  A Sister at a recent Relief Society activity.

A Stake young adult activity.

The spiritual experiences are what truly make serving a mission worthwhile.  Brother Maleoka, after investigating for four years, shouted for joy as he came up out of the waters of baptism.  He was thrilled to know he could repent and improve his life.  He wore white to symbolize the purity that he felt.  He is illiterate. He said that he is unable to write about his baptism, but God could read what was written in his heart. This is the first time in his life he has worn a tie.  Elder Watkins is baptizing Luc, an eleven year old with amazing gospel knowledge and looking forward to becoming a deacon soon.  His tiny branch has few priesthood holders.  He was the first convert baptism in the far north of the mission in at least ten years.  No font within hours so Luc was baptized in the ocean.

I am so grateful to see the joy the Gospel brings into people's lives.  I'm so grateful for the blessings of the Gospel in my life and the opportunity we have to serve this mission.

MISSIONARIES

MISSIONARIES

Joseph Smith said, "A religion that does not require the sacrifice of all things never has power sufficient to produce the faith necessary [to lead] unto life and salvation." 

                                                                                        (Lectures on Faith, p. 58.)

 NEW MISSIONARIES 

In August we received 6 new missionaries in New Caledonia on a Friday. The Americans arrived in the morning and the two Tahitian Elders arrived in the evening. These missionaries were greeted with challenges almost immediately. One Sister had only been in New Caledonia for a couple of hours. After a few instructions and a brief drive with Elder Glade, she, since her senior companion doesn't drive, was put behind the wheel of car with three other sisters. The car is small and with four people inside the windows kept fogging up. It was raining. She couldn't see well. The other sisters were almost as nervous as she was because they knew she hadn't driven in New Caledonia, and they were making her even more nervous. She had to drive two sisters to their new area and then continue some distance farther with her companion to their apartment. There were several roundabouts {which are scary here, until you get used to them and understand there is method in the madness} that had to be negotiated on the way. As Elder Glade and I watched her determinedly grip the steering wheel and drive away in the rain I felt a little like I have felt watching our own children drive off as they've left home for a new phase in their lives. We marveled at the challenge and the adventure--their youth and their courage. Three days later the gate opener to these sisters' secured parking wouldn't work and they couldn't get their car out. They were on foot for the day until we could get a new battery for the remote to them.

A second new sister, after a nerve-wracking car ride, got to an apartment with no electricity and a broken door that hadn't been discovered on the inspection before they moved in. 

The third sister was assigned to the northernmost place that sisters work; and, while they were out,  their apartment was robbed two days after she got there.  All of their shampoo, etc., was stolen, as well as the new sister's camera.  One of the new Tahitian elders was a companion to the district leader.  They went to check on the sisters who were robbed. He had had most of his pants stolen while he was at the MTC in New Zealand and only had a pair or two left. The other new Tahitian elder, the day after he arrived, had to assist Elder Glade when he drained the boil on his companion's neck, and once again the day after that, and then go to the doctor with his companion on Monday in order to get a prescription for antibiotics.

The American elder didn't experience too much excitement, but did get a new companion after only a few days because of an emergency transfer.

                    

On Monday when these sisters, without shampoo or make-up, reported the robbery to the police, the gendarmes were amazed by their calmness and their cheerfulness.  The sisters told them that they were happy because they were missionaries and proceeded to share a little about the gospel with them.  Each of these missionaries made sacrifices to serve.  I was quite amazed at their first few days here. I'm sure they got a bit more than they were expecting, and yet they remained cheerful, unflappable, and ready to thrust in their sickles.  

SEASONED MISSIONARIES

Zone Leaders, Sister Training Leaders, and Office Elders 

As I have pondered Joseph Smith's quote at the beginning of this blog I have been grateful for a religion that requires sacrifice.  I am touched by the sacrifices the young missionaries have made to serve, and the faith that they are developing and strengthening.  Their lives are being forever changed and blessed by their service. This is the biggest sacrifice I have ever made for the church; but, as with all sacrifices, the blessings more than compensate. Elder Glade and I are having experiences here that are forever changing and blessing our lives.  The gospel does have the power "to lead unto life and salvation."

SOME THINGS I NEVER THOUGHT I'D SEE

(Not exactly life-changing, but a change in our lives.)

Elder Glade holding a deer leg.  A member of the stake presidency shot the deer, brought a leg to the office, and gave it to us.  Elder Glade "butchered" it.  I didn't know how to cook it, but President Goroday gave us good instructions and it was delicious--not at all like the venison my grandpa used to shoot and my grandma cooked and served.  A sister in our ward bought a huge bag of fish at the market and gave it to two of the sister missionaries to share with the other missionaries. Not knowing what to do with it, they gave it to Elder Glade who spent an entire evening gutting all the fish which we distributed to as many of the missionaries as we could.  The Tahitians were thrilled, many Americans leery;  but after some of the Tahitians cooked the fish for the Americans, who loved it, everyone was grateful and happy.

Elder Glade fixing a car in a white shirt--no less!

Here we never know what experiences tomorrow will bring.

JULY--A MONTH OF MIRACLES

WE HAVE EXPERIENCED MIRACLES

When the last zone conferences were held in the Vanuatu Mission President Granger told the missionaries that July could be a month of miracles for the mission if they would have faith, work hard, and be obedient.  We have experienced miracles in the New Caledonia area of the mission. There has been increased energy among the missionaries and they have been busier finding and teaching than in the months since we've arrived here. We had one convert baptism in our ward between the end of March and the first of July.  In July we had four baptisms.  (Other wards have had increased baptisms as well.)

There have been dozens of nonmembers at the baptisms--more investigators on Sundays.  The missionaries are so excited.

Felicien is a fisherman and was taught by Sister Decady ad Sister Casuga

Marie, his wife, is already a member.  There is so much joy in their faces.  Before he was baptized Felicien came by the office seeking a blessing.  He was concerned about his ability to keep the word of wisdom on his two-week fishing trips at sea.  After Elder Glade's blessing the Lord helped him remain strong on the next two trips. He returned home confident he was worthy to be baptized and could remain faithful.  He has a great testimony of the Book of Mormon. The bishop told him that now he would also be a fisher of men.

Rebecca, a nine year old girl, was baptized.  Her mother, a member, began attending church again last April.  Rebecca decided she wanted to become a member as well.  A woman named Christine was also baptized the same day.  

  It was a chilly winter day and Rebecca is contemplating the cold water

 Elder Kessler and Rebecca

After Christine's baptism.  She is on the right.

We hadn't known Christine very well before; but her son, a YSA, has come to our apartment for FHE with the other young adults and had been praying for this day for a long time.  

Josie walked into the bureau one day and said she had been taught before by sisters but had lost contact with them.  We gave her name to the missionaries in her area who then taught her and she also was baptized.  We spend a lot of time in the office, but we have been blessed to have people come to the office or call because they want to learn more about the church and Elder Glade has a chance to talk with them (in French so I don't say much, but I smile a lot)  and connect them with the young missionaries.  There have also been several occasions when people have come to the office seeking blessings.  I feel it is a tender mercy of Heavenly Father to give us these opportunities to connect with these wonderful people without ever leaving the bureau.

               

Josie

This is from a baptism in Mont Dore, another ward in our stake.  The woman holding the little girl was baptized.  Elder Villierme, giving the thumb's up, broke his hand a while ago. He was scheduled to have the pin removed, but he didn't want to miss baptizing this woman. His surgery was postponed. Elder Graham is on the right.

I didn't get a picture, but we attended another baptism of a young man we had seen in passing. He works at a store where we shopped for furniture when we first got here.  He had been friends with the stake president's daughter before her mission and got in touch with her again when she returned. He asked why she was different from other young women. She said it was because of her church. He then asked to come to church, and he read and did everything the missionaries asked him to do. It was on a ward campout that he felt the Spirit testifying that he should be baptized.  It was thrilling to see him fellowshipped then baptized by a man whose baptism we witnessed in June.  

At the baptisms we hear talks about how the gospel changes lives.  This is true.  For so many of us in Utah this is a gradual process.  It is a tremendous blessing to be here and see lives change dramatically.  It is exciting and uplifting to go to church on Sunday and listen as new members bear testimony, give talks, make comments in class, and say prayers.  There are investigators each Sunday at church. We are experiencing miracles--the miracle of conversion in peoples lives. 

Another miracle for us is that we are serving in the New Caledonia area of the Vanuatu Port Vila Mission.  Years ago we listened as a son received his patriarchal blessing.  He was told he would serve a mission in a place he had never been, among people he knew nothing of. I have often reflected that this is more true for us than for him thus far in his life.  A year ago we couldn't have told you one fact about either here or Vanuatu with any certainty--including their location. 

We enjoy the combination of Melanisian, French, Polynesian, and Vietnamese cultures and love the people here. It is hard to describe how it feels to be here.  There are often people playing basketball and volleyball on the courts between the chapel and our office.  Children play on the grassy area next to the courts. People greet each other warmly with a kiss on each cheek.  Children run to greet us--often with faces upturned for a kiss. Members pray diligently for missionaries and that their children will serve missions.  They bring food to every baptism and most activities and linger for hours afterwards visiting.  People of all ages dance joyfully and unreservedly.   We are so grateful for the joy we are experiencing as we play a small part for a brief time in this wonderful mission.

TWO TRIPS

VANUATU

We recently had the opportunity to return to Vanuatu for a conference for Senior Couples. We had dinner at the Mission Home when we first arrived on our mission and there were 7 other senior missionaries there.  This conference there were 18 others.  We serve in New Caledonia, two couples came from the Solomon Islands, and the rest serve in  the Islands of Vanuatu.  Three other couples stayed at the same hotel.  We were able to have some fun and productive visits over breakfast.  We never get to see other full-time senior couples.

The conference was at the Mission Home all day Monday and ended with dinner for 22 at a restaurant on the beach.  During the conference each couple and the two single missionaries made a presentation about what their particular mission entails.  Two couples (one German--a pediatrician and a school teacher) are rebuilding houses that were destroyed in the cyclone over a year ago. One couple runs the PATH program to improve further education for Ni-van (born in Vanuatu) youth.  Two couples are in the Solomon Islands--one is almost finished and the other just starting.  They have known each other for forty years and ended up in the same mission and on the same island totally by chance (inspiration).  They will enjoy serving together for a short while. One couple is on another island in Vanuatu.  One couple spends a period of time on various islands conducting audits for the church.  The others work in the office in Port Vila, Vanuatu.  A single woman is the mission nurse and works with housing.  A single full-time senior elder (he thinks he is the only modern-day, older, single elder to serve a foreign mission in the whole church) from Australia is in charge of all the cars in the mission and also works with housing.  The office couple has financial and visa responsibilities and she teaches some piano lessons to Ni-vans.  These missionaries are an adventurous, fascinating, inspirational bunch with a wide variety of experiences and responsibilities. We definitely have the best living conditions because the rest of the mission is third world--especially the Solomon and outer Vanuatu Islands.  

We are able to have a "cultural" activity at a conference. Tuesday morning we went on a gorgeous hike with the some of the other couples to a waterfall and swam in a beautiful blue, blue pool at its base.  If we held still for very long hundreds of tiny (1-2 inch) fish would nibble on our legs.  After the hike we had lunch at a restaurant on the beach.  

In the afternoon we got the supplies we needed from the mission office and chocolate from the grocery store.  It is expensive, but cheaper than in New Caledonia.  We had dinner with three other couples.  Elder Glade spoke French to the waitress.  (The common language in Vanuatu is Bislama, a pidgin English. Most people also speak either English or French.) She was excited to talk to him in French. In a few minutes she came back to ask about the church.  He got her contact information and explained where the closest ward was to where she lived.  She knew where the chapel was and wanted to go.  Another waiter stood near the table listening and seemed interested as well.  I hope sometime we hear what happens with her.

Being with other couples; sharing experiences, challenges, and solutions; was fun, helpful, and inspiring.  




ISLE DES PINS

Scott and Meridith came to visit us for a week. We flew to the Isle of Pines and stayed overnight and also visited many places we have been wanting to visit here around Noumea. We had some fun meals out and also that we fixed at home--so many fun things to try. Scott, a sausage lover, ordered andouillette de Troy and got more than he bargained for--pig intestines filled with more (coarsely chopped) pig intestines and it tasted like------intestines.  Later reading about them online indicated that many French people love them. Andouille, in France, is a large andouillette; but safe to eat and delicious in Louisiana.  

Queen Hortense's Grotto 

Natural Swimming Pool--amazing                                                                                                                         snorkeling in the crystal clear water

Our inspiration

  Our imitation

Lunch on a small deserted island

Sunset and pines

Chief Ouamambara of the Isle des Pins--a catholic                                                                                               whose convert daughter is now serving an LDS mission

Chief Ouamambara's white sand beach